Help

Deer Camp does not pull pictures out of your camera's account yet. We are working on connecting to the camera makers directly, Tactacam Reveal, Spypoint, Moultrie, Stealth Cam and the rest, so pictures land here on their own. You will not have to go looking for it: everybody with an account gets an email the day it works, and this notice comes off this screen the same day. Until then, tap Add pictures on the camera in the Cams drawer and hand it a batch. Everything downstream works the same.

Hand them the invite code at the top of the Camp drawer, or send an email invite from the Admin drawer. The link makes them an account if they have not got one.

The map, your camp, marks, stands, cameras, sits, weather and the rut calendar are free. Pro is the AI work: reading your pictures, asking about your own ground, the habitat plan and the food plot planner.

Nothing is deleted. Your map, your marks and your pictures stay put and the AI features go quiet until you come back.

Some counties are years behind on records. Use Trace corners in the Plan drawer and click your corners on the satellite view instead.

Yes, if you download the area first. Frame the ground and tap Offline in the tools while you still have wifi.

The time comes off the stamp burned into the picture. If the camera's clock is wrong or the stamp is unreadable, it falls back to when you uploaded it. Fix the clock at the camera and set the time on the picture.

Yes. Switch any mark to just you and nobody else in the camp sees it, on the map or in any list.

Camp, then Account, then Log out.

Camp, then Your plan, then the billing button. You stay paid up through the term you bought.

The walkthrough opens each drawer in turn and says what it is for, on your own map, with your own ground under it. It takes about a minute and you can stop it any time.

You can run it again whenever you want. It is the first thing in Help.

The app needs to know where camp is before anything else is worth showing. Everything reads off that one spot: the satellite map, the weather, the season dates, the rut calendar, the habitat plan.

Open Camp and put in the address or drop the pin on the ground itself. If you do not have an address for it, search the nearest crossroads and drag the pin the rest of the way.

Six buttons, and each one opens a drawer over the map:

Camp is the club: who is in it, the invite code, where camp is, your plan, your account. Sits and Admin are pills inside it.

Mark is everything you put on the map by hand: stands, blinds, scrapes, rubs, beds, crossings, gates, food plots, and the shapes you draw.

Land is the habitat side. Plan reads your terrain, soils and cover and writes the work list. Plot is the food plot planner.

Hunt is today: wind, weather, moon, season dates, rut timing, and what to sit. Scout is the pill next to it, which is what your own ground has proven and what it still has not answered.

Cams is the cameras: the catalog, the deer numbers, the pictures, and the bucks.

Maps is property lines and who owns what, plus the layer switcher and the offline download.

Two ways, both in Camp.

The invite code at the top of the Camp drawer works for anybody standing next to you. He signs up at getdeercamp.com or in the app, then puts the code in under Join a camp.

For anybody who is not standing next to you, open Admin and send him an invite by email. He gets a link that makes him an account if he has not got one and drops him straight into your camp.

Only a camp admin sees the Admin pill. If you started the camp, that is you.

Deer Camp does not pull pictures out of your camera's account yet. We are working on connecting to the camera makers directly, Tactacam Reveal, Spypoint, Moultrie, Stealth Cam and the rest, so pictures land here on their own. You will not have to go looking for it: everybody with an account gets an email the day it works, and this notice comes off this screen the same day.

Until then you put the pictures in yourself, which takes about a minute:

1. Save the pictures out of your camera's app to your phone, or pull the SD card and put it in your computer.
2. Open Cameras in Deer Camp and find the camera they came off of.
3. Tap Add pictures and pick them all at once. There is no limit per batch.

From there it is the same as if they had come in on their own. It reads what is in the frame, counts the deer, reads the time stamp burned into the picture, and pulls the wind, temperature and pressure for that exact hour.

Open Cams and tap Add a camera, then put the pin where the camera actually hangs. Name it what you call it out loud, Creek crossing or Powerline, not Camera 3.

The spot matters more than the name. Every movement lane, every wind read and every suggestion for the next camera is measured off where the pin sits, so put it on the tree, not close enough.

Find the camera in the Cams drawer and tap Add pictures. Pick as many as you want at once, a whole card dump is fine.

Each picture gets read: what is in it, how many, and the time stamp off the picture itself. Then the weather for that exact hour is pulled and filed with it, which is what makes the movement lanes and the wind patterns mean anything.

There is also Log by hand in the same drawer for a sighting with no picture behind it.

The time comes off the stamp burned into the bottom of the picture. If the camera's own clock is wrong, or the stamp is cut off, cropped out, or too dark to read, the picture falls back to the time you uploaded it.

Fix it at the camera: set the date and time in the camera's menu and leave the stamp turned on. For pictures already in, open the camera, open the picture, and set the time yourself.

This matters more than it sounds. A picture filed at the wrong hour gets the wrong wind and the wrong temperature with it.

Catalog old pictures reads every buck picture you have, files the ones it is sure about under a buck, and asks you about the ones it is not. New pictures file themselves as they come in.

When it asks, answer it. Those answers are what make it right on the next one. If it filed two bucks that are one buck, open the buck and merge them. If it put one picture under the wrong buck, open the picture and move it.

It will not guess a name onto a deer it cannot tell apart, which is why it asks instead.

That count is days since the last picture you put in for that camera, not days since the camera took one. If you have a card sitting in the truck that has not been uploaded, that is the whole answer.

If it is current and it really is quiet, that is worth knowing on its own. Open Scout and look at what is still unanswered, or ask for a suggested spot under Next camera.

Open Mark, pick what it is, then tap the spot on the map. Stands, blinds, cameras, scrapes, rubs, beds, tracks, crossings, feeders, mineral, water, parking, gates, harvests, sheds. Turkey and waterfowl sign have their own kinds.

To draw a shape instead of a point, a food plot boundary or a bedding area, use the drawing tools in the same drawer. Acres are figured for you.

Every mark is either the camp's or yours. Open the mark and switch it to just you, and nobody else in the camp sees it, on the map or in any list.

Personal marks stay out of the shared lanes and camera suggestions too, on purpose. A honey hole you kept to yourself should not show up in somebody else's plan.

Tap the mark on the map and use the buttons on it, or find it in the list in the Camp drawer and use the icons on the row. Rename, move, delete.

You can change anything you created. A camp admin can change anything in the camp.

Open Land, then Plan. Give it the property boundary and it reads the terrain, the soils, the cover and the water on that exact ground, then writes the work list in the order the work actually has to happen.

The fastest way to a boundary is the parcel lookup: tap your ground and it pulls the deed lines from county records. If your county is behind on records, use Trace corners and click the corners on the satellite view instead.

Coverage comes from county records and some counties are years behind, especially on ground that changed hands recently or was split off a bigger tract.

Use Trace corners in the Plan drawer. Click your corners on the satellite view and it closes the boundary for you. The plan does not care where the boundary came from.

Open Land, then Plot. Pick the plot and it gives you what will grow on that soil, what each species is actually good for, the planting window for your latitude, seeding rates, and the mixes worth running together.

If you have a soil test, put it in. The lime and fertilizer rates come off the real numbers instead of a rule of thumb, and you can photograph the lab sheet instead of typing it.

Whether the season is open where you are, the wind and weather for the next few days, the moon, where the rut is on your latitude, and which of your stands the wind actually favors right now.

Stand advice reads off the field of view you set on each stand. A stand with no direction set gets left out, so set them once and it pays for itself every morning.

Start the sit when you climb in and end it when you climb down. Log what you saw while you are sitting there.

The weather is filed with it for you. That is what turns a season of sits into what your ground has proven, over in Scout, instead of a pile of notes nobody reads again.

Two things. What your own ground has proven, mined out of your cameras and your sit log with the sample size printed on every fact, and what it still has not answered, which is where the next camera or the next sit is worth spending.

Mine the season re-reads everything you have filed. It is worth running after a card dump.

Open Maps and turn the property lines on. Tap any parcel to see the owner, the acreage and the parcel number where county records have them.

Every owner your camp pulls is kept, so the whole camp reads it free from then on and nobody pays for the same neighbor twice.

Frame the ground you care about and tap Offline in the tools. Do it on wifi before you leave the house.

Your map, your marks and your camp data are then on the phone. Anything that has to reach the internet, weather and the AI reads, waits until you have bars again.

The Layers button in the tools switches between satellite, topo and contour lines. On a phone the tools are behind the Tools button on the bottom bar.

Camp, then the Admin pill. Send an invite by email, hand out the code, make somebody else an admin, or take a man off the camp.

Taking a man off does not erase what he marked. His stands and his pictures stay on the camp's map. He just loses his way in.

Whose marks, at the top of the Camp drawer. Pick Everyone or pick one man, and the map follows.

The seat count is printed in the Admin drawer next to the invite code, so you always know how many of your seats are used. If your club is bigger than the cap, email us and we will sort it out.

The map, your camp, your marks, your stands, your cameras, the sit log, the weather and the rut calendar. You can run a camp on the free side and plenty of people do.

Pro is the part that costs us money every time it runs: the AI reading your pictures, asking questions about your own ground, the habitat plan and the food plot work.

Yes, and it is the cheaper way to do it. One camp subscription covers every member you have and everybody who joins next season, up to the seat cap. Split across ten hunters it is less than a box of shells apiece.

The buttons are in the Camp drawer under Your plan. Only a camp admin can put the camp on it.

Close the app all the way and open it again. Plan changes land on the next load.

If it is still walling you, check under Your plan in the Camp drawer for what it says you are on. Send us that line and your camp name and we will fix it from our side.

Camp, then Your plan, then the billing button. It opens the billing portal where you can change the card, see every receipt, or cancel.

Cancelling leaves you paid up through the end of the term you already bought. Nothing is deleted when it lapses. Your map, marks and pictures stay exactly where they are and the AI features go quiet until you come back.

Every receipt is in the billing portal, reachable from Your plan in the Camp drawer. If you need one made out to a club or an LLC, email us and say what it needs to read.

Email us from the address on the account and say what happened. We would rather refund a man who is not using it than argue with him about it.

A subscription bought inside the iPhone app is managed by Apple, not by us. Cancel it in Settings on the phone, under your name, then Subscriptions. Apple handles those refunds too.

If it is not showing as Pro in the app after Apple took the money, email us and we will straighten it out.

Email us from the address on the account and we will send you a way back in. Self serve password reset is on the list and is not built yet, so for now it goes through a person.

Camp, then Account, then Log out. It is also under the account button at the bottom of the rail on a computer, and in the Admin drawer if you run the camp.

Yes. Same account, same camp, same marks. Sign in on as many as you want.

Something you change on one shows up on the other the next time it loads.

Camp, then Account, then Delete account. It shows you exactly what goes with it before anything happens, and it makes you type the word out, because it does not come back.

If you started the camp, hand it to somebody else in the Admin drawer first, or the camp goes with you.

The people in your camp, and only them, for anything marked as the camp's. Anything you mark as just yours is yours alone.

We do not sell your ground, your spots or your pictures to anybody, and there is no version of this app where that changes. The privacy page at getdeercamp.com/privacy says it in full.